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Grand Canyon Road Trip –
Ancients to Aliens, part 1

Marcia Ehinger, MD, a native Californian, is a retired pediatrician and genetic specialist. She is the California Writers Club Sacramento Branch newsletter content editor.
 
 

We should have expected the traffic snarl, leaving town on Friday afternoon of a three-day holiday, but we were prepared for a long drive with a bag full of munchables in the back of the car.

"Xander, you're the designated snack passer," I said to my grandson in the third-row seat.

Despite the snacks, we were all hungry when we reached Santa Nella at 6 p.m., and chorused, "Longest In'N'Out Burger line ever!" Refueled, we drove on. The plan was to stay overnight in Mojave, less than halfway to the Grand Canyon South Rim. It was early October, but daytime temperatures were still in the nineties, so the kids had brought their swimsuits "just in case." As soon as we arrived at the motel, they spotted the pool.

"Can we go swimming?"

"Sorry, it's after 10 o'clock. The pool's closed."

"Tomorrow morning?"

"No, Mom wants to start driving as soon as we have some breakfast here at 6 a.m." Whining ensued — kids for no swimming, adults for getting up early.

We saw the sun rise over the desert and were surprised by the number of Joshua trees we passed. After crossing the border into Arizona and the Colorado River, we visited our first rest stop.

"We're in the Mojave Desert," I said to my granddaughter.
"Yes," said Lizzie, as she kicked up sandy dust. "It reminds me of Egypt."

We had visited Egypt the year before, and we would have other remembrances on this trip. The bright sun reminded me that I had forgotten to bring a hat.

Our first alien encounter happened when we noticed a sign for a tourist spot. "So good, aliens eat here," is the motto of the Best Western Space Age Lodge in Gila Bend. It has a spaceship crash landed on the roof and a gift shop with space-themed souvenirs.

However, our mission led us elsewhere, so we continued on to the Kingman Subway for sandwiches and the new foot-long cinnamon sugar churros. We saw lots of guns and ammo ads and Andy Devine Avenue leading to the airport. The nearby hills looked like piles of big rocks but the desert scrub became greener and bushier with junipers.

Near the Bearizona wildlife park billboard, a sign said, "Grand Canyon 46 miles." The South Rim is open all year and receives about 90% of park visitors. When we got closer, there were two long lines of cars trying to enter. A ranger walked by and asked if we had a pass. I showed her my "America the Beautiful" card for seniors. She motioned us around the lines and into the park.

It's difficult to describe the Grand Canyon to anyone who hasn't seen it in person: the enormity of the cavity, the outcroppings, shades of yellow, orange, red, brown, green, a vast blue sky, soaring birds, occasionally the ribbon of river below. The rock layers predate the dinosaurs.

 

 


Geologically young, the canyon cuts are only 5 million years old. We kept staring out and down, taking photos, and walking further away from the entrance. Hungry, we realized the concessions had closed and watched the sunset's orange glow from the parking lot. We drove off in the dark, hoping to find an open restaurant.

"So many stars" in the night sky mesmerized us, and we stopped to look up while listening to the crickets. Every tiny town food venue had just closed before we arrived. However, we got lucky at the Cameron Trading Post. It's closing time is 8 o'clock but we had been driving through Navajo Country, which observes Daylight Savings Time. The rest of Arizona doesn't.

"It's only 7:50 p.m.!" We rushed through all the displays of native jewelry, pottery, rugs and various knickknacks to the restaurant in the back. They were still serving, including their "famous Navajo Taco" and other local treats.

The next morning, we emerged from our motel in Marble Canyon to the rising sun highlighting the red-orange bluffs near Utah. We walked across Navajo Bridge and saw the condors, an endangered species re-introduced there. The average distance across the canyon is only ten miles. However, the drive between the South and North rims is over 200 miles. We had mules to ride at 1 p.m.

The North Rim views are just as spectacular as those from the south. By riding mules, we had a chance to experience the piney woods as well. Of course, the kids loved yelling, "Pit stop!" whenever a mule needed time to relieve itself on the trail.

Our stop for the night was Las Vegas, another long drive through the countryside. We spied a coyote loping along, while cattle and deer grazed nearby.

Hitting the lights of Vegas at night was quite a show: neon New York New York, Caesar's Palace, Trump Hotel. Even In'N'Out had a moving light display. We walked to the Luxor Hotel, "Egypt in Las Vegas." Despite the pyramid outer structure, the kids said, "Not really Egypt." The entryway was flanked by sphinxes and seated statues of Ramses II, plus video ads for sports betting, scantily clad women, and the Blue Man Group. Guests take an escalator up ("definitely NOT like Egypt") to King Tut's Tomb Experience and gift shop. There, in America, you can get the t-shirt: "Discovering King Tut" or "Live Your Best Afterlife" and accessorize with a silver fanny pack or hobo bag.

Continued next issue: Part 2: Hoover Dam, Grand Canyon West, Excalibur in Vegas, more aliens

~ Marcia Ehinger